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Engine ID/Project kart help
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The forums are a place for open discussion of karting topics. Please respect the opinions of others. No name calling, abuse, bashing etc. of any sort will be tolerated and offending posts will be removed and offenders sanctioned at the discretion of the webmaster or the executive. All posted materials, text, etc. become the property of the CKRC and may be displayed or removed at the discretion of the CKRC.
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ckometz
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2022 7:40 am
- First Name: Chris
- Last Name: Kometz
- City/Town: Calgary
Engine ID/Project kart help
Hello, my name is Chris. Im new to karting. I bought a basket case PTK kart, and a bunch of boxes of spare parts. I have this engine that I can’t seem to ID with my searches online. I don’t know if I can even run it on the track. Any help would be appreciated!
Last edited by ckometz on Sun Jan 23, 2022 2:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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ckometz
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- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2022 7:40 am
- First Name: Chris
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Re: Engine ID/Project kart help
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ckometz
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2022 7:40 am
- First Name: Chris
- Last Name: Kometz
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Re: Engine ID/Project kart help
I also have these 2 Yamaha engines. Are they useable, or too old? Sorry, these may seem like dumb questions…
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John Kwong
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Re: Engine ID/Project kart help
Hi Chris,
Welcome to karting!
The liquid cooled engine is a 100cc PCR direct drive motor that was raced around 2000-2003. You would need an axle driven water pump and a radiator to run that motor. The 2nd motor is a 100cc Yamaha KT100SE with a centrifugal clutch and 3rd bearing mount and these were raced from 1980-2002. The third motor is also a Yamaha KT100 but is an older version due to the lack of rubber dampening on the fins. The CKRC does not currently run any of these engines at their race events but you could run these engines at Test & Tune practice events or in the annual 3 hour enduro race.
The chassis vintage is before 2003 as the sided attachment on the front of the chassis is on the "A" arm yoke and not on the side near the gas tank. There is usually a chassis tag on the crossbar behind the seat that identifies the brand and model of the kart. It looks to be an older PTK or Paul Tracy Kart that was manufactured by CRG. Other than the brakes, many parts are interchangeable between manufacturers.
John K
Welcome to karting!
The liquid cooled engine is a 100cc PCR direct drive motor that was raced around 2000-2003. You would need an axle driven water pump and a radiator to run that motor. The 2nd motor is a 100cc Yamaha KT100SE with a centrifugal clutch and 3rd bearing mount and these were raced from 1980-2002. The third motor is also a Yamaha KT100 but is an older version due to the lack of rubber dampening on the fins. The CKRC does not currently run any of these engines at their race events but you could run these engines at Test & Tune practice events or in the annual 3 hour enduro race.
The chassis vintage is before 2003 as the sided attachment on the front of the chassis is on the "A" arm yoke and not on the side near the gas tank. There is usually a chassis tag on the crossbar behind the seat that identifies the brand and model of the kart. It looks to be an older PTK or Paul Tracy Kart that was manufactured by CRG. Other than the brakes, many parts are interchangeable between manufacturers.
John K
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ckometz
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2022 7:40 am
- First Name: Chris
- Last Name: Kometz
- City/Town: Calgary
Re: Engine ID/Project kart help
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate all the info! I do have the water pump, rad, etc for the pcr. The direct drive thing seems like it would be a bit of a pain. Is there a way to run a clutch somehow? Or would the kt100 be more fun?
Yes, it is a PTK chassis, from what I was told. There is no tag that I can find, only the letters/numbers on the front. I was able to disassemble the brake, clean it all out and got it working again. I threw the kt100se on there and got it running. It seems to run great. I can’t seem to get the clutch to slip at all (the engine will stall if the wheels stop) I disassembled it, read the manual, reassembled/adjusted it, and still no luck.
Yes, it is a PTK chassis, from what I was told. There is no tag that I can find, only the letters/numbers on the front. I was able to disassemble the brake, clean it all out and got it working again. I threw the kt100se on there and got it running. It seems to run great. I can’t seem to get the clutch to slip at all (the engine will stall if the wheels stop) I disassembled it, read the manual, reassembled/adjusted it, and still no luck.
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John Kwong
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Re: Engine ID/Project kart help
The direct drive thing is a bit of a pain but the motor puts out about 29 hp compared to the Yamaha's 16 hp, so the reward is power and speed. The Yamaha is a good place to start if you have never driven a kart before.
On the Yamaha motor with the motor not running, the rear wheels should be able to be rotated freely. I am guessing that the discs inside the clutch are not disengaging, so there might be too many discs inside or the springs are not tight enough to separate the friction discs from the steel discs.
If the brakes start leaking, the brake cups are an imperial size that you can get at an auto parts store. If you can't find them, I think I still have a few of those.
John K
On the Yamaha motor with the motor not running, the rear wheels should be able to be rotated freely. I am guessing that the discs inside the clutch are not disengaging, so there might be too many discs inside or the springs are not tight enough to separate the friction discs from the steel discs.
If the brakes start leaking, the brake cups are an imperial size that you can get at an auto parts store. If you can't find them, I think I still have a few of those.
John K
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ckometz
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2022 7:40 am
- First Name: Chris
- Last Name: Kometz
- City/Town: Calgary
Re: Engine ID/Project kart help
The wheels rotate completely free when the engine isn’t running. I’m guessing the issue is an adjustment thing? I measured all the friction plates, checked the air gap as per the manual, and adjusted the spring pressure 1 turn in, and then 3 turns (the max according to the instructions). Wheels still turn when engine is running. I’m quite mechanically inclined and this has me baffled. It’s a fairly simple component hahaha. Thanks again for the help!